I made a hurried entry into the ST bus
and grabbed my window seat. Next to me was a grumpy faced old lady
with a big sack next to her. Her pretty faced teenage daughter was
sitting across the aisle. The bus was filled with villagers and with cleated shoes, baggy shorts and a backpack on my back, I was easily the odd one out.
|
Ameya helping me load the bike on the top of the ST bus |
Just a min back I had successfully
managed to fasten the bicycle on the roof top along with help from my brother
in law. I was on way to Guhaghar to join the rest of the gang on our
maiden 8 days Konkan Ride – Mumbai to Goa. Unlike the regular bus
route, we were going to take the old SH4, disconnected at multiple
places by creeks and river crossings, but rewarded by views no less
than Magical. I was supposed to start with the other 4 riders from
Alibaugh, but had to alter my itinerary due to some personal
emergency. As per the new plan, I would be joining them at
Guhaghar by the end of the 3rd Day. It helped immensely that my friend Mihir had arranged a Bergamont Vitox 6.3 for me from Pune which I was supposed to courier back once in Goa. So there I was
sittting in the Swargate – Guhaghar ST bus, appreciating the
countryside.
By around 5 pm , I was at Guhaghar.
Guhaghar is a sleepy little town , with just a small hamlet of
houses and shops, with the beach being 5 min walk. We saw lot of
shops selling confectioneries made of local products like alphanso,
kokum etc.
The home stay booked was just a km from
the bus stand and an old gentleman , who turned out to be owner of the homestay, welcomed me with a big curious
smile. He was keen to know more about the ride and was excited about the fact
we are going to unpack and assemble the bike from the box. Krish,
Varun, Sumit and Rajiv arrived a little later in the evening. This
was the 3rd consequite day of riding for them, over some
really hilly terrain. It was good to see them.
That night, over some fried surmai,
fish curry rice and solkadi, I caught up with Krish A, Sumit and others on stories and
happenings in the last 3 days. Most of the talk was around the scenic
beauty of the route, and the amount of climbing they have done. There was also a lot of talk on the road conditions and some great time they had riding on one of the beaches. I
was really itching to start my trip.
Day 1 ( Guhaghar to Ganapatiphule ,
~80 km)
|
My Ride Begins |
After a nice and long breakfast, we
kicked off the day's ride at around 9.30 am. I had the freshest of legs, but I could instantly
make out why the terrain has been the centre of the talk last night. Immediately after we crossed the town, the climbs started . The
terrain remained heavily rolling for most of the day as we kept
riding through the western ghats. We crossed forest stretches and lots of mango farms.
|
The road leading to the Tavsal jetty |
My First Ferry Crossing
The ride so far was good, but to be
frank, it was event-less. Also, the ' magic' I was expecting was
missing, and I just hoped it would get better. Little after noon, we reached Tavsal, from where we had to catch the Ferry to Jaigarh.
|
Getting into the ferry, and on our way to Jaigarh |
It was my first
ferry ride after long, so I was looking forward to it. Not the same
with the others though. They had boarded 4 ferries in the last 3
days, with one of them being a very adventurous one that could only take
2 bikes and 2 passengers at a time. They had to cross that one in 2 shifts. Anyways, I got to
ride my first ferry of the trip soon, and we were at Jaigarh.
The lunch at Jaigarh
It was around 1.30 pm, and we decided
to stop at Jaigarh for lunch. Now, one of
the reason I do bike tours is to taste the local cuisine. The idea is to stop at non fancy little places where locals eats. After a bit of
searching , we located a small local eatery where some truckers
had stopped as well.
|
The lunch at Jaigad. The mackarel fry was delicous. |
The place served some great bangda( mackarel)
thali. Here again, Krish, Sumit and others had started getting bored
with the konkani cuisine. Sumit complained about lack of variations
and said he can't take any more of that konkani fish curry. But, it was my first
lunch of the trip and there was no way I was going to give up. I gorged on the
fish and topped my glass of solkadi thrice.
|
The gateway to the beach ride. Waiting for Varun and Sumit. |
I finally get to my share of Magic
I was still looking out for the 'spectacular'
part of the ride and even starting to get a little impatient. A lot has been talked about the amazing views the route offers, but they had eluded me. Post lunch, the terrain seemed to have eased a little and the climbs were more gentle. It continued for
another 10 km like that and after a sharp downhill, we found our self
on a road right next to the beach. My first real view of the sea and
the sand. Someone said 'lets get on to the sand', and we rode right
on the beach.
|
Yeh, our private beach. |
|
Miles of miles of hard sand , not a soul in sight. |
|
Riding on the sand, with the waves kissing our tires, I finally had my share of Magic |
It was one one of the hardest sand beaches i have come
across and the ride along the sea made the day. The evening sun
shinning on sea, the cool breeze on our face, the hard sand beneath
the tires with not a soul in sight. I finally had my share of the
Magic I was so looking forward to. For 5 long kms, we had just the
sea waves giving us company and then we got onto the tarmac again. One
more hill and an hour later, we were at Ganaptiphule.
|
Around 5 km from Ganapatiphule |
Unlike Guhaghar, this was a much bigger
town. After a shower and visit to the famous Ganaptiphule temple, we
walked down to one of the eateries that the locals recommended.
Everyone was super hungry and we gorged on the food. Food was great, and that place seemed to be a hot among visiotors.The surmai fry
was the best I had in a long time . On the walk back, we stopped by
an ice cream parlour and chit chatted on the great time we had over
multiple cup of amul ice creams.
Day 2 ( Ganapatiphule -
Ratnagiri-Pawas-Adivare ~85 km)
We were all ready
to start by 7 am, when one of us noticed that Varun had a flat.
Apparently, Varun had missed inspecting his tire before the trip and
has been having frequent flats since the last 4 days. On inspection,
we realized there was actually no rubber in multiple places. Every
change of tube in no time resulted in the next flat. It took some
ingenious effort for the team and we eventually managed to start the
ride at 8.30 am. Now we were not sure if his time is going to last even for the next 5 km. The plan for Varun was to somehow reach Ratnagiri
and then try looking for some tires. And just hope for the best:-)
After a nice long
climb, we were at the outskirts of ganapatiphule, entering
bhandarphule. Memories flashed back and I remembered my trip 15
years back when me and 2 of my roomates had taken a bus down here
from pune and stayed at one of the cliff view resorts at
Bhandarphule. From bhandarpule we had taken many walks down to
Ganapatipule. 'The town has changed', I told myself .The familiarity made me feel good though.
The Magic was Back!
|
The road runs along the sea |
The terrain kept
heavily rolling. The road cut through the western ghats like the day
before, but this time we were right next to arabian sea offering us
terrific cliff views. The Magic was back. It kept on like that for a
pretty long time, and we kept shuffling between riding and taking
pictures. It was the best part of the trip for me !
|
A coconut break |
Cycle touring can be taxing on the body, and mind. Many times, when
the going gets tough, I tend to ask myself why I am doing this? Is it
worth the suffering ? Part of the answer lies in roads like those that makes you forget all the pain.
|
The Magic was back. We stopped to appreciate the views |
|
Riding by the sea, I could answer myself why I had gone through all the sufferings |
|
|
Some more answers to questions thrown by life! |
The Tire Hunt for Varun
After many breaks,
we reached Ratnagiri. On priority was to find a replacement tire for
Varun's Bergamont. It was not going to be easy because the rim sizes
used on these bikes are slightly different than the local rims. I mean different sizes. And
guess what ? We actually found a shop who has tire for the rim! We
were elated and celebrated the occasional with a lavish spread of
breakfast on one of the local udupi restaurant.
|
Yeh, we got the tire! Jyoti Cyle store comes to our rescue. |
|
Varun getting his tire replaced. |
The View from top, Kishore Kumar and the Escape from Sun
|
Gentle rolling climbs, great surface |
Post Ratnagiri we
were greeted with some relatively flatter roads. The terrain was
barren with open fields on both sides. We pushed on hard to cover some
lost time, but the afternoon sun with and the occasional long
climbs made it harder and harder. Finally we stopped at a lone
shack on top of one climb.
|
Break Time! |
I came to know Krish A had reached here
almost an hour back and has waiting for the rest of us. As soon as I hopped off the bike, Krish A informed
us with a big smile that the shack makes some of the best masala
chai, and he had savoured many cups till then. However, after
sweating out in the sun for the last 2 hours, tea was last thing in
my mind. I just crashed onto one of the benches the shop had and
wished the ride just ended there for the day !
|
The Rejuvinating Lunch break |
After 30 min or so, I woke up to the radio playing some lovely old kishore kumar songs
and amidst some vada pav and misal pav related discussions. Aparently
those were the 2 options available to eat. All of us feasted on both, and
followed up many glasses of Kokum Sarbat.
The long rest has
recharged us. It also helped that it was nearing 3.30 pm and the
sun was not at its notorious best. It was time to move on.
The Adivare Sun temple and the flock of Hornbills
Vijaydurg was
still around 50 km away, and we wanted to reach as close to it
possible while the daylight lasted. Krish was as usual ahead of us when
we saw the sign for the Kanakaditya sun temple, a 800 odd year old temple located in the forest. I
realised Krish has missed the turn and Kedar, a friend of us , had told us repeatedly not to miss ' The Adivare temple'. We tried calling
Krish, but there were no phone signal. The rest of us continued to
the Kanakaditya Sun Temple.
|
Through the forest, to the Sun temple |
Krish A, the Flying Mascot!
The Adivare town
was 3 km away, it was getting dark. Our headlights were on by the time we reached the town. 'Your
friend was waiting for you for the last 1.5 hours here!' one guy screamed. 'He went
looking for you', another sighed. 'Where were you all?' , one more curious local wanted to figure out. We explained we could not co ordinate as phone signals were not working. and assured them not to worry. We told 'Krish would be back soon'. And so was Krish, in 20 minutes. We checked into Adivare
temple guest house that night – the only accommodation in the town and used a local tailors phone to call our home .
|
Temple Guest House |
To be Continued......